Since 1823 the Ocracoke Lighthouse has been lighting the way for sailors, and it is a vital part of what makes up Ocracoke today. Not only is it one of the first things visitors to the island want to see, it is part of many of the stories that tell the history of the island and the village. I have been here a little more than eight months now and have tried to learn all I can about the island and its people. Locals and those who are more seasoned “dingbatters” (more on that later) than I have welcomed me with open arms and stories, smiles, greetings, encouraging words. I have read books written by islanders and walked the streets of the village as well as many, many miles on the beach. Here is some of what I have learned about the village and its people.
Perhaps the most important first fact is how dependent Ocracoke is on the ferry system. One cannot get on or off the island without a boat, generally a ferry — assuming you want to take your car so you can get somewhere once you disembark! (There is a small airstrip, but that is hardly a viable option for most folks!) And of course travel by ferry is dependent not only on the schedule itself but also on the whims of the water, the effects of wind and tide on the water levels and the amount of sludge in the sounds. And then there is the possibility of a long line waiting for a ferry, especially during the busier seasons of the year (roughly April through September!).
Since I am teaching here, I see the impact of the ferry on our school. Most doctor and all dentist/ orthodontist appointments require a student (or teacher) to miss a full day of school. The same is true for travel to away games for our athletic teams. It isn’t unusual for a team to get back to the island as late as midnight. And more than one game has been ended on a questionable call by a referee or umpire who wanted to be sure he caught the last ferry!

The community is so involved in the school! The turnout for athletic events, food fundraisers, plant sales, arts performances, everything is amazing. And in turn the school is a huge part of the community. When a house caught fire recently, several teachers and students had to leave to help fight the fire. This is Run Fest weekend and students were working stations all along the routes. All high school students are required to log at least ten hours of community service each year, and most far exceed that number.
And the school itself is so special, so different. In many ways it is like any other school: teachers, students, projects, tests. We have STEAM Fair and Battle of the Books, state testing, ESL and EC, after school program. We don’t have a cafeteria or buses or bells. Children ride their bikes to school or walk; a few are dropped off by parents in golf carts or cars. They use that same transportation to go home for lunch or they stay at school and eat food brought from home (or sometimes delivered by parents!). And when they finish eating, they go outside and play! When the principal has a chance, he goes outside with them to play football.
Football… there is no football on Ocracoke, outside of those playground games. Basketball is popular and successful here. It has long been the game of choice. Soccer and baseball programs are growing. And not having football even changes the concept of homecoming! I’ll write more later about the interesting traditions of homecoming, prom, graduation, and so on.
We have no bells at school because of the size of the campus. Ocracoke School includes pre-kindergarten through 12th grade. The elementary, middle and high schools all have different schedules– except for lunch, which is the same for everyone– so we cannot have bells ringing all day long! everybody either brings lunch (or parents bring it to the children!) or goes home for lunch. And after lunch, the playground is full of running, ball-throwing, giggling children.
Almost every day after school, I head to the beach to walk. I walk for exercise; I walk to look for shells; I walk to observe and photograph birds. And I walk to clear my mind, to pray, to meditate, and to think. And one of the things I think about it the dunes. All my previous experience on NC and SC beaches have included warnings to “keep off the dunes”! Here people can regularly seen climbing the dunes or walking between them from pull-out spots alongside Highway 12. And from my reading of local books, I cannot help but wonder which of these magnificent sand piles are built up around abandoned cards from the early 20th Century and within which dunes are hidden the bones of shipwreck victims from even earlier. This is part of the wonderful history of the island. When cars stopped working, after being “driven to death,” and the inevitable rust and corrosion from the salt took over, there was no place to leave them. Some were left sitting in yards and some were simply abandoned wherever they stopped running along the main road, left for sand to blow and build up around them. And despite the faithful lighthouse, many shipwrecks still occurred and many lives were lost. Ocracokers were quick to come to the aid of the floundering ships, and they carefully tended to the bodies of the those who lost their lives. Some were wrapped in cloth from the ships or whatever other material could be found and then buried in the dunes.
Speaking of Highway 12, here is a look at it as I drove to the ferry on the north end, leading to Hatteras Island and, among other things, the nearest chain grocery store. Notice the sand blowing across the road. Typical. Often there is a plow parked on the side of the road… I am used to thinking of this as a snow plow. Not so much here! Highway 12 runs the length of the Outer Banks. On Ocracoke it begins and ends at ferry terminals. Within the village it is know as Irvin Garrish Highway, and most of the retail establishments as well as other vital elements of the community (school, churches, fire department, etc.) are either on the road or located a “block” off it. NC 12 is often covered in sand or water. Big storms can leave it impassable for days.
I come from the mountains. We have trees. Lots of trees. Big trees, little trees, bushes. We love our trees and all their foliage. Especially in the fall when the leaves turn amazing colors (sometimes). Here on Ocracoke there are not as many trees or as much variety. But two varieties stand out: the live oak and the fig. Live oaks are salt tolerant and sturdy enough to withstand the often harsh winds. Many magnificent oaks have survived for hundreds of years here. And the fig provides those luscious fruits which are made into preserves which then become the island’s signature dessert, the Fig Cake. It is really simply a jam cake which is made in many locales with various fruit preserves, but here it is truly a legend. (With a little luck, I will be entering my own variation of the Ocracoke Island Fig cake at next year’s Fig Festival.)

Small family cemeteries can be found all over the village. Some of the gravestones are so old and worn that the script is unreadable. Others reveal some interesting information. There is the Wahab family who lost several young sons, including one whose stone indicates that he dies before he was born. This was likely an engraving error that was too difficult and expensive to correct! The same cemetery has the grave of a woman who died in 1841 at the age of 117! Small family plots with names one sees and hears often on the island– Howard, Garrish, Styron, O’Neal, Gaskins– show up on Howard Street and in other unexpected places, in back yards, on paths and roadways throughout the village. A larger community cemetery now exists in the village as well.

The British Cemetery is a source of pride in Ocracoke. It includes the graves of four British sailors and is dedicated to the memory of the HMT Bedfordshire of the British Royal Navy which was sunk by a German submarine in May, 1942. The four bodies that were recovered are buried in carefully tended graves, and a ceremony is held each spring to honor the fallen sailors and their contributions to our cause during WWII.

Ocracoke is known for its ponies. For over two hundred years they roamed freely on the island. The paving of Highway 12 and the increase in traffic led to concerns about the safety of the ponies, and in 1959 the National Park Service built fences to enclose the ponies in the Ocracoke Pony Pens. Just this month a new pony was born into the herd… expect a post about Jobelle soon. In the 1950s, Ocracoke had the only mounted Boy Scout troop in the country.
This post is taking me forever it seems! There is so much more to share, so many more things that are part of what makes Ocracoke the special place that it is. I shall change th title of this post to include “part 1” and will continue it later. Suffice it for now to say that I have come to love this place and have a deep appreciation for its culture, its history and its people.